The name "Matelassé Chain" isn't officially used by Chanel to describe the chain on their watches. However, this term accurately reflects the distinctive quilted leather and metal chain design that has become synonymous with the brand's iconic handbags and, subsequently, its watches. Understanding the origins and evolution of this chain is key to appreciating the enduring allure of Chanel timepieces, particularly the Première watch, which debuted in 1987. This article explores the Matelassé Chain, its connection to Chanel's heritage, and its impact on the design language of the house's horological creations.
The story begins not with a watch, but with a perfume bottle. The octagonal shape of the CHANEL N°5 perfume bottle, a cornerstone of the brand's identity, served as the inspiration for the case of the Première watch. This bold design choice, launched in 1987, immediately established a visual link between Chanel's fragrance legacy and its foray into the world of haute horlogerie. But the case alone doesn't define the Première's aesthetic impact; it's the interplay between the octagonal form and the accompanying bracelet that solidifies its place in horological history.
The original Première watch bracelet incorporated a design element that would become intrinsically linked to the brand's identity: the Matelassé Chain. This wasn't simply a metal chain; it was a meticulously crafted combination of supple leather and gleaming metal, mirroring the iconic quilted leather of the 2.55 handbag, designed by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel herself in 1955. This interweaving of materials, the soft yielding of the leather against the hard glint of the metal, instantly communicated the luxurious duality that lies at the heart of the Chanel aesthetic. The quilted leather, a signature element of Chanel's ready-to-wear and accessories, became a symbol of opulence and timeless elegance. Its incorporation into the Première watch bracelet extended this symbolism into the realm of timekeeping, seamlessly merging the worlds of fashion and horology.
The Matelassé Chain, in its original iteration, represented a significant design departure. Prior to the Première, the association between leather and metal bracelets in watches was less prominent. While leather straps were common, the integration of quilted leather, meticulously stitched to mimic the iconic handbag design, was a bold move that instantly elevated the watch beyond a mere timekeeping device. It became a statement piece, an accessory that reflected the wearer's appreciation for both meticulous craftsmanship and iconic design.
The success of the Première and its Matelassé Chain paved the way for further explorations within Chanel's watchmaking collections. Variations on the chain design appeared, adapting the core concept to different materials and aesthetic approaches. While the quilted leather remained a constant in many iterations, the metal components were subject to experimentation. Different metals, from yellow and white gold to stainless steel, were incorporated, altering the overall tone and feel of the bracelet. The size and pattern of the quilting also underwent subtle variations, reflecting evolving trends while maintaining the core essence of the original design.
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